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The sport of riding on waves while lying down or standing up on long hardwood surfboards has been associated by Europeans with the Hawaiian Islands ever since the late 18th century, when a two-page descripition of surfing was included in the official journal of Captain James Cook's third expedition to the Pacific. ..... Despite the commercialism that accompanied its popularization, surfing continues to provide enjoyment and special connection with nature afor millions of people around the world.
――東京大学 〔1〕―(B)――2003年
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